Nepal - In fact
Location / Geography:
The Kingdom of Nepal covers an area of
147,181 square kilometers, and stretches 145-241
kilometers north to south and 850 kilometers west
to east. The country is located between India in
the south and China in the north. At latitudes 26
and 30 degrees north and longitudes 80 and 88 degrees
east, Nepal is topographically divided into three
regions: the Himalaya to the north, the hills consisting
of the Mahabharat range and the Churia Hills, and
the Terai to the south. Elevations are varied in
the kingdom. The highest point is Mt. Everest (8848
m) in the north and the lowest point (70 meters
above sea level) is located at Kechana Kalan of
Jhapa District. Altitude increases as you travel
south to north To the north temperatures are below
- 40 degrees Celsius and in the Terai, temperatures
rise to 40 degrees Celsius in the summer. During
June, July and August, the kingdom is influenced
by monsoon clouds.
Alcohol:
Home distillation is an ancient practice in Nepal,
still managing to hold its own against modern distilleries.
The Nepali brand-name hard liquors are best avoided.
Often adulterated with chemicals they can give a
quick headache. Imported brands are expensive. The
Nepali beer market is booming, with at least four
local brands and two local licensees on the market.
The finest alcohol is homemade stuff. Raksi is potent,
exhilarating and smooth as velvet. To test for good
raksi, toss a small amount on a fire and see if
it burns. Women of a household pride themselves
on their liquor, and will put the most effort and
time into making raksi for a big celebration like
a wedding. Different grains produce different flavors:
rice raksi is rich and smooth, kodo (millet) is
stronger and more fiery.
Less potent is home-brewed beer, land (Nepali) or
chang (Tibetan), a whitish, thin drink made from
rice or millet with a refreshing sweet-sour taste.
A variation served in mountain regions is tongba,
fermented mash which is placed in a wooden container
and mixed with hot water. You drink from a bamboo
straw, sipping the liquid and avoiding the bits
of millet; the hot water is refilled several times,
and nursing a flask of tongba is a nice sport for
a cold evening.
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Language:
Nepali is the national language of Nepal. Though
many languages are used throughout the country,
most people understand and speak Nepali. Educated
people, and those involved in the tourist industry
also understand and speak English.
Books
& Bookstores:
Kathmandu is an international center for books on
Himalayan regions, especially Nepal and Tibet There
are probably 200 titles on Nepal and just as many
on Tibet and Vajrayana Buddhism. other regional
specialties include mountaineering the Himalaya,
Tantrism, Hinduism, India and Asian travel accounts
by Westerners, plus dozens of lavish photographic
books on the Himalaya, surely one of the most photographed
regions on earth.
Few travelers realize that Kathmandu's bookstores
offer bargains on new as well as used books. Some
are sold at Asian edition prices, 35-50% less than
in the West Locally published books are remarkably
cheap, and Indian editions are reasonable. You can
find specialty books long out of print or unavailable
in the West. Best of all are the many discounted
books sold on remainder, often of popular titles
which are being pushed off the market by new arrivals.
You can get especially good bargains on expensive
photographic books.
Kathmandu's oldest booksellers, Ratna Pushtak Bhandar
in Bhotahiti, operates Ratna Book Distributors in
Bagh Bazaar near the French Cultural Center. They
publish Kallash and the Biblloteca Himalayica series
of inexpensive reprints of rare classics on the
Himalaya. Another place to check is Himalayan Booksellers
in Bagh Bazaar (also with a Thamel outlet). Mandala
Bookpoint on Kanti Path has an excellent selection
of regional books. Pilgrim's Bookhouse in Thamel
has a vast selection with an emphasis on New Age
topics and Eastern religions. A smaller branch up
the street stocks rare books on all sorts of Asian
subjects. Educational Booksellers on the Tundikhel
has a good range of Penguins, modern fiction, and
children's books, plus shelves of textbooks and
business books, including Asian editions of computer
software manuals retailing for half the Western
price.
Kathmandu's used book shops are famous for their
eclectic selection provided by Western travelers.
In essence they're like a perennially rotating library;
you can sell books back for 50% of the original
price and buy more. Shelves are stocked with a genuine
cross-section of travelers reading. Generally quantity
predominates over quality; thick historical novels
are popular buys for long treks.
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Newspapers:
Despite only 40-percent literacy, Nepal boasts an
astonishing 460 newspapers - an outgrowth of two
noble Brahmanic traditions, punditry and gossip.
Of the handful printed in English, only the Rising
Nepal is widely circulated, and outside Kathmandu
it's always a day or more out of date. It's pretty
much a government mouthpiece, but still manages
in spite of itself to shed light on current events
in Nepal. The weekly Independent (published Wednesdays,
available only in the capital) covers issues with
greater candour and depth, but it's aimed at political
insiders. Foreign publications such as the International
Herald Tribune, USA Today, Asian Wall Street Journal,
Time and Newsweek are sold in Kathmandu and Pokhara,
but nowhere else. For British newspapers, try the
British Council in Kathmandu.
Radio
& Television:
The government-run Radio Nepal is by far the most
influential of the nation's media, catering to the
illiterate majority of Nepalese and reaching villages
well beyond the reach of any newspaper. With a daily
format of traditional and pop music, news bulletins,
English language lessons, dramas and development
messages, it has been a powerful force for cultural
and linguistic unity, though demands by various
ethnic groups for programming in their native tongues
has recently become a hot political topic. The station
carries English-language news bulletins daily at
8 am and 8 pm, and relays the BBC World Service
in Kathmandu from 11pm to 12.15am. If you're traveling
with a short-wave radio, you can pick up the World
Service at 15.31, 11.75 and 9.74MHz.
Nepal-Tv, with transmitters in Kathmandu, Pokhara
and Biratnagar, broadcasts Nepali and Indian shows
mainly in the early morning and evening, with the
news in English at 9.40pm -check the daily schedule
in the Rising Nepal. STAR satellite TV, out of Hong
Kong, beams MTV, BBC World Service TV and various
American reruns.
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Customs & Airports:
Green Channel :
Passengers arriving at Tribhuvan International Airport
(TIA) without any dutiable goods can proceed through
the Green Channel for quick clearance without a
baggage check. If you are carrying dutiable articles,
you have to pass through the Red Channel for detailed
customs clearance.
Import:
Apart from used personal belongings, visitors
are allowed to bring to Nepal free of duty cigarettes
(200) or cigars (50), distilled liquor (one 1.15
liter bottle), and film (15 rolls). You can also
bring in the following articles free of duty on
condition that you take them out with you when
you leave: binoculars, movie or video camera,
still camera, laptop computer, and portable music
system.
Export
It is illegal to export objects over 100 years
old (sacred images, paintings, manuscripts) that
are valued for culture and religious reasons.
Visitors are advised not to purchase such items
as they are Nepal's cultural heritage and belong
here. The Department of Archaeology (tel: 42137
01, 4213702) at Ramshah Path near Singha Durbar
has to certify all metal statues, sacred paintings
and similar objects before they are allowed to
be sent or carried out of the country. Handicraft
dealers and travel agents are able to assist you
in this process. For more information on customs
matters, contact the Chief Customs Administrator,
TIA Customs Office; tel: 4471043, 4472266.
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Time:
Nepal Time is 5 hours 45 minutes ahead of GMT and
15 minutes ahead of Indian standard time.
Money:
Nearly all money in Nepal is in the form of notes.
The Nepalese rupee is linked to the Indian rupee,
but its value fluctuates against all other major
currencies. Now 71.00 rupees to the dollar and 128.00
rupees to the pound sterling and 90.00 Rupees to
Euro. Travelers' cheques are accepted at all exchange
counters. Credit cards are occasionally accepted
in shops and restaurants. Withdrawing money with
a credit card possible through a bank but now a
day available on the major tourist area with 24
hour service.
Climate & when
to go:
It's hard to generalize about the climate of a country
ranging in elevation from near sea level to Mount
Everest. About the only thing that can be said is
that all but a few parts of Nepal are governed by
the same monsoon pattern, with temperatures varying
according to elevation (see chart). Five seasons
prevail in Nepal, but these are not mere meteorological
divisions: when-ever you choose to go, you'll have
to weigh weather against other factors, both positive
(mountain visibility, festivals, wildlife) and negative
(crowds, disease).
Probably half of all tourists visit Nepal in the
autumn (October to November), and for good reasons.
The weather is clear and dry, and temperatures will
not too cold in the high country nor too hot in
the Tarai. with the air washed clean by the monsoon
rains, the mountains are at their most visible,
making this the most popular time for trekking.
Two major festivals also fall during this season.
The downside, however, is that the tourist quarters
are heaving and hustly, it's hard to find a decent
room, you'll waltages for food and for trekking
permits, and people are short on ready smiles and
chat. In winter (December and January), the
snow line descends to 2.000 - 3000m and though
it never snows in Kathmandu, the "mists of
India" make the capital feel cold and clammy
(especially in unheated budget lodgings). Most
travelers head down into India, leaving the trekking
routes and guest houses fairly quiet too quiet,
sometimes, as many restaurants pare down their
menus for the season.
Spring (February to mid-April) brings warmer
temperatures, longer days, weddings and more festivals.
The rhododendrons are in bloom in the hills towards
the end of this period, and in the Tarai the thatch
has been cut, making this the best time for viewing
wildlife. All of which creates another tourist
crush, albeit not quite as bad as in the autumn.
The one factor that keeps people away is a disappointing
haze that obscures the mountains from lower elevations,
though it's usually possible to trek above it.
The pre-monsoon (mid-April to early June) is stifling
at lower elevations, and dusty wind squalls are
common. People get a little edgy with the heat;
this is the time for popular unrest, but also
for the Kathmandu Valley's great rain-making festival.
Trek high, where the temperatures are more tolerable.
Nepal welcomes the monsoon (June to September),
which breaks the enervating monotony of the previous
months, and makes the fields come alive with rushing
water and green shoots. The rains rinse and renew
the land. This can be a fascinating time to visit,
when Nepal is at its most Nepali, but there are
many drawbacks: mountain views are rare, leeches
come out in force along the mid-elevation trekking
routes, roads wash out, flights get canceled,
and disease runs rampant as the rising water table
brings the entire contents of Kathmandu's sewers
to the surface.
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Government:
Nepal has a bicameral legislature. The lower house,
the House of Representatives, consists of 205 members.
Members to the lower house are elected every five
years. The upper house, the National Assembly, is
made up of 60 members who have a six-year tenure
in office. One-third of the members retire every
two years. Fifteen members are elected by the local
government, 35 members by proportional representation,
and 10 members are nominated by the King. Administrative
Divisions:
Nepal is divided into five development regions,
14 zones, and 75 districts. Each zone consists
of four to eight districts. Sixteen districts
lie in the Himalayan region, 39 in the hills and
20 in the Terai. The lowest local level administrative
unit is the Village Development Committee (VDC).
There are 3,996 VDC's in the country.
History:
For centuries the Kingdom of Nepal was divided
into many principalities. Kirats ruled in the
east, the Newars in the Kathmandu Valley, while
Gurungs and Magars occupied the mid-west. The
Kirats ruled from 300 BC and during their reign,
emperor Ashoka arrived from India to build a pillar
at Lumbini in memory of Lord Buddha. The Kirats
were followed by the Lichhavis whose descendants
today are believed to be the Newars of the Kathmandu
Valley. During this period, art thrived in Nepal
and many of the beautiful woodcarvings and sculptures
that are found in the country belong to this era.
With the end of the Lichhavi dynasty, Malla kings
came to power in 1200 AD and they also con tributed
tremendously to Nepal's art and culture. However,
after almost 600 years of rule, the kings were
not united among themselves and during the late
11th century, Prithvi Narayan Shah, King of Gorkha,
conquered Kathmandu and united Nepal into one
kingdom. Recognizing the threat of the British
Raj in India, he dismissed European missionaries
from the country and for more than a century,
Nepal remained in isolation. During the mid-I
9th century Jung Bahadur Rana became Nepal's first
prime minister to wield absolute power. He set
up an oligarchy and the Shah Kings remained figureheads.
The Ranas were overthrown in a democracy movement
of the early 1950s. Today, Nepal enjoys a multi
party democratic system with a constitutional
Monarch.
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People, culture and Religion:
Nepalese people are mainly divided into two distinct
groups, the Indo-Aryans and the Mongoloids. Kathmandu
Valley is the spiritual and cultural meeting point
of all these groups.
Religious practices are an important part of the
lives of the Nepalese people. Mythologies of various
Hindu gods and goddesses abound in this country
and cultural values are based on the philosophies
of holy books like the Swasthani Gita, Ramayana
etc.
Women and children visit neighborhood shrines at
dawn to offer worship to the gods. Holding plates
of rice, flowers, and vermilion powder, they perform
puja by lighting incense, ringing the temple bell,
and applying tika, a red paste, on their foreheads.
Passers by stop at temples and show their reverence
to the gods by spending a few minutes praying. Occasionally,
groups of men sit near temples playing music and
singing hyms until late night.
In Nepal, Hinduism and Buddhism are the two main
religions. The two have co-existed down the ages
and many Hindu temples share the same complex as
Buddhist shrines. Hindu and Buddhist worshipers
may regard the same god with different names while
performing religious rites.
Though Nepal is the only Hindu Kingdom in the world,
many other religions like Islam, Christianity, and
Bon are practiced here. Some of the earliest inhabitants
like the Kirats practice their own kind of religion
based on ancestor worship and the Tharus practice
animism. Over the years, Hinduism and Buddhism have
been influenced by these practices which have been
modified to form a synthesis of newer beliefs.
As a result, visitors to this country may often
find the religious practices in Nepal difficult
to follow and understand. But this does not prevent
one from enjoying the idifferent traditional ceremonies
and rituals of Nepalese culture. It is indeed a
totally new experience of religious fervor.
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Hinduism:
Thousands of gods and goddesses make up the Hindu
pantheon. Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva are he three
major Hindu gods who have heir own characteristics
and incarnations. Each god has his own steed which
is often seen kneeling faithfully outside that god's
temple. Symbolic objects are carried by the multiple
ands of each deity which empowers them to perform
great feats. Buddhism:
Sakyamuni Buddha is the founder of Buddhism who
lived and taught in this part of the world during
the sixth century BC. The great stupas of Swayambhunath
and Bouddhanath are among the oldest and most
beautiful worship sites in the Kathmandu Valley.
The spinning of prayer wheels, prostrating pilgrims,
collective chants and burning butter lamps are
some Buddhist practices often encouithtered by
tourists. A slip of paper bearing a mantra is
kept inside the wheels so that prayers are sent
to the gods when the wheel is spun. Scenes from
the Buddha's life and Buddhist realms are depicted
on thangka scroll paintings which are used during
meditation and prayer ceremonies. Many Buddhist
followers are seen performing these practices
in Swayambhunath, Boudanath, and at other Buddhist
sites around the Valley.
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Medical Treatment:
Hospitals
Kathmandu has the country's best medical facilities,
but for anything serious you'll want to fly to Bangkok
or back home. Nepali hospitals are crowded and very
basic. For most illnesses consult a Nepali doctor
or visit a private clinic. CIWEC Clinic (Tel. 4228531
and 4241732) in Durbar Marg is staffed by Western
physicians and nurses and provides competent care,
but a visit is expensive by Nepali standards, $25
plus lab fees. This clinic have a doctor on-call
after hours for emergencies. Kalimati Clinic near
the Soaltee Oberoi Hotel (Tel. 271813) is open 1300-1430
Mon. and Fri., Wed. 10.00-11.30 and 13.30-14.30.
It offers immunizations, including gamma globulin
and post-exposure rabies vaccine, but doesn't generally
diagnose illnesses.
For emergency treatment, hospitalization, and surgery
the best facility is Patan Hospital in Lagankhel
(Tel. 522266 / 522295). Also known as Shanta Bhawan,
it was founded and is still partially supported
by the United Mission to Nepal. There's also an
inexpensive dental clinic here. Next choice is the
Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital in Maharajganj
(tel. 412-303 / 412707). Avoid the government-run
Bir Hospital near the Tundhikhel (tel. 221119 /
221988); it has expensive high-tech equipment like
a Catscan but a chronic shortage of drugs and basic
supplies.
In Pokhara, ill travelers should visit the Western
Regional Hospital (tel. 20066), which does stool
tests and provides treatment Larger Terai towns
and district centers may have a government hospital,
but out trekking, medical care is basically up to
you - a good reason to carry medical essentials
and be familiar with them. Pharmacies
Plenty of pharmacies are scattered about town,
the biggest on New Road and near hospitals. If
your problem is uncomplicated you may want to
get an inexpensive stool test at one of Kathmandu's
local labs and doctor yourself. No prescriptions
are necessary and you can get a wide range of
inexpensive medication, most of it made in India.
Ayurvedic medicines based on the ancient Indian
system of herbal remedies are frequently used.
An Ayurvedic practitioner popular with Westerners
is Dr. Mana Bajracharya, whose office is behind
the Mahaboudha stupa in a warren of buildings
behind Bir Hospital. Tibetan medicine with its
thousands of herbal-based remedies is also popular;
the largest concentration of Tibetan doctors is
in Boudhanath.
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Economy:
Nepal is a developing country with an agricultural
economy. In recent years, the country's efforts
to expand into manufacturing industries and other
technological sectors have achieved much progress.
Farming is the main ecomic activity followed by
manufacturing, trade and tourism, The chief sources
of foreign currency earnings are merchandise export,
services, tourism and Gurkha remittances. The annual
Gross Domestic Product (GDP) is about US$ 4.3 billion.
Agriculture:
Eight out of 10 Nepalese are engaged in farming
and it accounts for more than 40% of the GDP. Rolling
fields and neat terraces can be seen all over the
Terai flatlands and the hills of Nepal. Even in
the highly urbanized Kathmandu Valley, large tracts
of land outside the city areas are devoted to farming
Rice is the staple diet in Nepal and around three
millions are produced annually. Other major crops
are maize, wheat, millet and barley. Besides food
grains, cash crops like sugar cane, oil seeds, tobacco,
jute and tea are also cultivated in large quantities.
Most recently the cardamom is becoming one of the
most popular cash crops in the eastern part of the
country. Manufacturing:
Manufacturing is still at the developmental stage
and it represents less than 10% of the GDP. Major
industries are woolen carpets, garments, textiles,
leather products, paper and cement. Other products
made in Nepal are steel utensils, cigarettes,
beverages and sugar. There are many modem large-scale
factories but the majority are cottage or small-scale
operations. Most of Nepal's industry is based
in the Kathmandu Valley and a string of small
towns in the southern Terai plains.
Trade:
Commerce has been a major occupation in Nepal
since early times. Being situated at the crossroads
of the ancient trans-Himalayan trade route, trading
is second nature to the Nepalese people. Foreign
trade is characterized mainly by import of manufactured
products and export of agricultural raw materials.
Nepal imports manufactured goods and petroleum
products worth about US$ 1 billion annually. The
value of exports is about US$ 315 million. Woolen
carpets are Nepal's largest export, earning the
country over US$ 135 million per year. Garment
exports account for more than US$ 74 million and
handicraft goods bring in about US$ 1 million.
Other important exports are pulses, hides and
skins, jute and medicinal herbs.
Tourism:
In 1996, a total of 390,000 tourists visited Nepal,
making tourism one of the largest industries in
the Kingdom. This sector has been expanding rapidly
since its inception in the 1950s, thanks to Nepal's
natural beauty, rich cultural heritage and the
diversity of sight-seeing and adventure opportunities
available. At one time, tourism used to be the
biggest foreign currency earner for the country.
Nepal earned over US$ 116 million from tourism
in 1995.
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Entry Procedures:
Nepalese entry procedures change frequently. As
of Jan. 2000 you can obtain a 60 day single entry
visa at any entry point in Nepal for US $30. It
is recommended to check prior to arriving in Nepal
what the current procedure is and also to bring
at least one passport photo with you if you intend
arranging your visa on arrival here. (Carry all
necessary documentation in your hand luggage.)
Entry Points:
By Air:
Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu.
By Bus:
(1) Kakarbhitta (2) Birgunj (3) Belhiya (Bhairahawa)
(4) Nepalgung (5) Dhangadi (6) Jogbani (Biratnagar)
and (7) Mahendra Nagar in Nepal-India border and
(8) Kodari in Nepal-China border. The overland tourists
entering the kingdom with their vehicles must possess
an international carnet.
Rental:
Cars:
Private vehicles give the maximum freedom to visit
remote places at your own pace with a minimum of
time and hassle. The main drawback is cost, aggravated
by the high price of petrol.
Hiring a car / taxi for the day is much cheaper
and seldom difficult to arrange. You'll need to
discuss your itinerary and determine the price in
advance. You can arrange for the driver to drop
you off and pick you up several hours later at the
end of a day hike. Your travel agent can arrange
a car, or just start asking taxis on the street.
A private car can also be hired to take you to long-distance
destinations like Pokhara, Jiri, Tansen, Lumbini,
or Chitwan. Trekkers might consider taking a car
or taxi to the trailhead rather than spending an
exhausting day (or night) on the bus.
Motorbikes:
Motorcycles are available for rent at several shops
who are located on Dharma Path south of New Road,
near the Frensh House, and there are a few in Thamel.
Motorbikes range from 100cc to 250 cc, the largest
available. You'll need the extra power if you're
planning trips uphill with a passenger. You're responsible
for returning the bike in the same condition you
received it, so check it out carefully before taking
it. Some shops will ask for your passport as a security
deposit. A Nepal or International Driver's License
is required for motorcycle rental. If you have a
valid foreign license you can get a Nepali license
within a few days from the police station at Hanuman
Dhoka. Motorcycles can be fun, but you need to be
extra cautious in the hectic traffic of the city,
and equally careful of ducks, chickens, dogs, and
children in villages. Don't be overly optimistic
in planning how much territory you can cover. Nepal's
roads are rough, and long journeys are more tiring
than you might expect. It's best to go slowly and
stop for lots of tea breaks. Bicycles:
Renting a cycle is the ideal way to get around
if you're slightly adventurous and reasonably
in shape. It's also a good way to train for a
trek. Cycling's advantages are unequaled by any
other means of transport: it takes you out in
open air through the countryside, at a pace faster
than walking but still slow enough to enjoy. A
clunky old rented cycle may not be sleek, but
it frees you from worrying about theft or damage
when you lock it up to go exploiring on foot.
For a basic bike look for cycles lined up on the
pavement in Thamel, around Freak Street, and in
Bhotahiti. Rental fees are around Rs15 per day
if the market is tight but during the off-season
you can easily bargain it down. If you're renting
for a full week you should get a substantial discount
no deposit is necessary, just give your hotel
name and room number.
These bikes are Indian or Chinese models, sturdy
clunkers of the type you haven't ridden since
you were a kid. Get a Chinese-made bike (Flying
Pigeon and Phoenix brands) if you can; they're
better made and more comfortable than Indian models,
and worth the higher rate. In tourist season good
bikes are hard to find, so you might want to rent
one the preceding eveninig if you're planning
a trip. Check them over carefully before renting,
looking for bald or leaky tires, wobbly wheels,
bad brakes, loose or uncomfortable seats, loose
chains. Good brakes and a bell are essential;
a light is nice if you'll be riding at night.
Getting a reasonable machine will save the trouble
of having repairs done out on the road.
If you do get a breakdown look for a streetside
repair shop - sometimes no more than an orange
crate, a strip of rubber, and a pump. Mechanics
working on motorcycles may also take the time
to help you out and fix your bike. Shops may have
an air pump leaning against the doorway. You can
pump your own tires for a minimal charge of one
sukaa (25 paisa) per tire.
Cycles come equipped with built-in locks on the
back wheel. Only for a mountain bike will you
need more than this. At places like Swayarnbunath,
children swarm around new arrivals in a sort of
blackmail, fighting for the privilege of "watching"
the bike. If you decline, you may find your tires
mysteriously deflated upon your retum.
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Souvenirs:
Being a country rich in culture and traditional
art forms, Nepal has a very wide range of souvenirs
to choose from. Most are skillfully made handicrafts
with colorful designs; however, practical items
such as Nepalese clothes or folk music cassettes
and records are also popular among tourists. Some
of Nepal's best known and most popular souvenir
items are listed here along with a brief description
of where to go and what to look for when buying
these items. Thangkas:
As mentioned in the section of culture, thangkas
are religious paintings usually depicting Hindu
and Buddhist deities. There are many different
types and qualities of thangka available in the
Kathmandu Valley but probably the best value for
money can be found in Bhaktapur where many professional
ateliers devote their en tire time to producing
hand painted masterpieces. Besides Bhaktapur,
good thangkas can also be found in the Jhochhe,
Thamel and Hanuman Dhoka areas of Kathmandu.
Batik and Oil Paintings:
While on the subject of painting, miniature oil
paintings and batik art have become very popular
over the last few years. Batik paintings usually
depict everyday village scenes such as a girl
carrying a baby on her back, porters carrying
their loads etc. Most souvenir shops have a number
of different sizes and designs, mostly unframed;
it is also possible to order one's own design
if sufficient advance notice is given.
Oil paintings have a charm of their own and are
especially successful in depicting landscapes
and mountain sceneries. An interesting variation
is found in oil paintings painted on the reverse
side of the 'nanglos' - circular hand-woven trays
used by Nepalese women to sort rice.
Yet another form of painting is found in greeting
cards and consists of oil or water colors painted
on leaves of pipal tree. The most common design
shows Buddha in meditation; bird and flower designs
are also available. Leaf greeting cards are attractively
presented and usually contain a brief description
of the making process.
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Carpets:
After thangkas and paintings, carpets are probably
Nepal's second most popular souvenir item. As making
a good carpet requires a lot of work and materials,
this can be better understood by taking a cursory
glance at the making process.
It is woven entirely by hand on huge handlooms.
Chemical dyes are also used instead of vegetable
dyes. In places such as Jawalakhel and Boudhanath
it is possible to see the entire making process.
The smallest size of carpet available is sixteen
inches square, a size usually used for chair coverings.
The price depends on whether a chemical or vegetable
dye is used in the making process. A chemical dye
is cheaper but has brighter colors, making the carpet
seem slightly less authentic even though the quality
remains the same in every other way.
The most popular size of carpet is three feet by
six feet, although longer sizes are also available.
Carpet designs vary from fire-breathing dragons
to Buddhist deities and geometric patterns. Apart
from the above mentioned areas, one can also buy
carpets in the lndrachowk and Durbar Marg areas
of Kathmandu and at Mangal Bazaar in Patan.
Handicrafts:
Besides carpets, a variety of other traditional
and religious items such as wooden, ivory or bronze
prayer wheels, magic amulets, prayer boxes and
ritual bells, as well as practical items like
the coats, belts and buckles are also made usually
by hand. Souvenir shops are found in the shopping
arcades of most of Kathmandu's larger hotels as
well as in Boudhanath, Swayambhu and Jawalakhel.
Dolls and Puppets:
Dolls and puppets are some other souvenir items
that accurately reflect Nepalese culture and lifestyles.
Beautifully colored and available in many different
sizes, Nepalese dolls show traditional costumes
of different ethnic groups, often carrying, in
miniature, the tools of their trade, for example,
a plough or sickle. String puppets usually represent
the masked dancers, as one sees in the festivals
like Indra Jatra or Gal Jatra. Although available
in most souvenir shops, the best place to buy
a doll or puppet is in Makhan Tote, the paved
road leading from Hanuman Dhoka to Indrachowk.
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Rice Paper Prints:
Like carpets and thangkas, rice paper prints are
another traditional art form that have survived
the passing of centuries and again gained popularity,
this time as souvenirs rather than religious manuscripts.
Rice paper is made by hand from rice husks and is
well suited for printing purpose due to its high
absorbative properties. The actual prints, usually
of deities or religious monuments, are made by wooden
blocks rubbed with a thin layer of black ink. Nowadays
colored prints are also made, though these are naturally
more expensive. Rice paper prints can be purchased
along with the wooden blocks if required, in the
Basantpur area of Kathmandu, as well as at many
souvenir shops in the Valley's three main cities.
Nepalese Clothes:
Nepalese clothes, both traditional and modern,
are common and easily available souvenirs. Beginning
at the head, Nepalese caps or 'topis' are available
in the lndrachowk and Asan areas of Kathmandu,
as well as in the market areas of most of Nepal's
towns and cities. One can either buy a black topi
(popularly known as 'Bhadgaonle topi' as it was
first made in Bhadgaon) or a colorful printed
cap, known here as 'dhaka topi'.
Nepalese woolen jackets are also very popular,
especially during the colder months, and can be
purchased in most tourist shops at a reasonable
price. There is a variety of different colors
and designs and although size fittings are not
given, most shopkeepers are hapy to let potential
buyers try on a number of different jackets until
they find a suitable one. As all jackets are made
by hand, it is also possible to design one's own
jacket at a tailoring shop.
Whereas jackets are suitable for both ladies and
gentlemen, pashmina shawls are mainly a ladies'
souvenir item. The name pashmina refers to the
extremely soft and warm underhair of a variety
of mountain goat found in the upper regions of
Nepal.
Pashmina shawls come in different colors and designs,
the natural color being a dark ash-gray. Scarves
and mufflers of the same material are also available.
For the warmer months, cotton garments such as
the traditional daura (shirt) and suruwal (trousers)
worn by the men, are available in most bazaar
areas.
Shoes and slippers complete an outfit of the Nepalese
clothes; velvet, flannel and cloth designs are
commonly found, many of them also colorfully embroidered.
Often, the soles are made of thick cord rather
than the synthetic materials one usually sees.
For ladies, cotton saris and other clothes are
both cheap and attractive. Many souvenir shops,
particularly in the shopping arcades of larger
hotels, sell different varieties of silk shirts
and T-shirts with the printed designs such as
traditional dragons, temples and mountains.
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Bags and Purses:
Although not the traditional Nepalese items, handbags
and purses are practical and attractive souvenirs.
They are usually made of velvet, wool, cotton or
leather and often include intricate embroidery work
in their designs. Another variation on this subject
is passport pouches made to hang around the neck
inside one's shirt or jacket. Idols
and Images:
Miniature replicas of Nepal's many Buddhist and
Hindu deities have became one of Nepal's most
famous souvenir items. Bronze or brass images
are made by a wax modeling process known as the
'cire perdue' method. This process involves first
making a clay mould, into which the molten metal
is poured. The idol is then sanded and smoothed
to remove rough edges. A large variety of metals,
as well as wood carved idols are commonly available
in most souvenir shops. Stone images are naturally
more difficult to make and are thus rarer and
more expensive. Although most of the stone and
metal images available in the shopping centers,
it is forbidden to take out of the country any
artifact more than one hundred years old without
specific written permission from the Archaeology
Department. Artistically designed miniatures of
Pashupati temple, Swayambhu stupa and Krishna
temple are also available in both wood and metal.
Miniature Nepalese houses are somewhat rarer but
are of equal artistic value, being made of local
materials such as wood, hay and clay.
Khukuris:
Khukuris are long curved knives, made famous by
Gurkha soldiers. Khukuris are also frequently
used by the villagers as an all-purpose weapon.
One can buy the khukuris in most Kathmandu souvenir
shops or alternatively at open side stalls in
Basantpur, near Hanuman Dhoka. Khukur! has different
types and varieties. The older one contains inside
its sheath, two miniature knives, one serving
as a pen knife and the other as a flint for lightening
fires. Some khukuris have elaborately carved handles
and sheaths while others have plain designs. One
can also buy miniature khukurjs and khukuri brooches.
Jewelry, Ornaments and Precious Stones:
Both Nepalese and Tibetan in style and design,
many different types of pendants, bracelets, rings,
earrings and bangles can be bought in nearly all
souvenir shops. These are often adorned with such
precious stones as tourmaline, garnet, aquamarine
and smoky quartz, all indigenous to Nepal. Among
other indigenous stones to Nepal are coral and
turquoise, used both in religious ceremonies and
in ornaments. The best place to buy good quality
jewelry and rings inlaid with precious stones
is New Road in the central Kathmandu.
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Folk Music Cassettes and Records:
As mentioned briefly in the chapter on entertainment,
Ratna Recording Corporation has, since the very
beginning of its establishment about twenty years
ago, compiled and recorded a large number and variety
of instrumental and vocal folk music cassettes and
records. Although all the recordings are in mono
at present, quality and production are good. Ratna
Recording Corporation has its retail shop in Gangapath,
between Basantpur and New Road in the central Kathmandu.
Stamps and Coins:
Popular as souvenirs all over the world, Nepalese
stamps and coins can be purchased in most souvenir
shops, probably the best areas of Kathmandu being
New Road and Basantpur. Though Nepalese stamps
date back to 1907, many interesting and colorful
sets have since been issued, for example, mountain,
temple, flower and coronation sets to mention
just a few. Besides stamp sets, it is also possible
to buy miscellaneous sets containing fifty or
one hundred stamps per packet, either used or
mint. In addition to Nepalese stamps, Mongolian,
Tibetan, Chinese and Bhutanese stamp sets are
also common; some of them are quite unique as
they are made of silver foil or silk instead of
paper.Various coins of historical interest are
also available in the souvenir shops. High quality
tea products of Nepal are becoming popular among
the tourists as a typical souvenir.
Trekking permit:
No trekking permit will be required to trek in
common areas such as Sagarmatha, Annapurna and
Langtang. A Trekking permit is required to visit
Nepal's interior, i.e. areas determined for trekking
by the government. If you plan to trek in two
different areas, two trekking permits are required.
The Department of Immigration located at New Baneshor(Tel.
494273 / 476813) issues trekking permit for the
tourists who intend to trek any part of the country.
Trekking permit fee for different trekking areas
are fixed as follows:
Kanchanjunga & Lower Dolpa:
First 4 weeks - US$ 10.00 per week
After 1st 4 week - US$ 20.00 per week
Upper Mustang & Upper Dolpa:
First 10 days - US$700.00
After 1st 10 days - US$ 70.00 per day
Manaslu:
From Sept. to Nov. - US$ 90.00 per week
From Dec. to Aug. - US$ 75.00 per week
Humla (Simikot-Yari):
First 7 days - US$ 90.00
After 1st 7 days. - US$ 15.00 per day
Trekking in the following areas require
prior approval from the Ministry of Home Affairs:
- Olangchunggola, Lelep and Papung in Taplejung
- Kimathanka, Chepua, Hatia and Phawakhola in
Sankhuwasabha
- North-West route to Nangpala of the Namche VDC
in Solokhumbu
- Thuman and Timure in Rasua
- Chrkampar and Chuchet in Gorkha
- Nar, Phu and area on the North from Tiliche
of Thoche VDC in Manang
- Mugu, Dolpung, Phulu and Magare in Mugu.
- Limi and the route to Tibet through Tangekhola
of Darma VDC in Humla
- Byas in Darchula
- Kanda in Bajhang
Important Note:
1. For the trekking permit, please attach two
copies of photograph with the application form.
2. Trekking permit will not be issued; to individual
trekkers in the following areas:
- Kanchanjunga
- Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpa
- Manaslu
- Humla (Simikot-Yari)
3. Trekking permit will not be issued
- For more than the date of validity of visa.
- For areas previously declared restricted.
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